Perfect 2 Week Sicily Itinerary Without a Car

Sicily is really having a moment, being featured in Season 2 of the hit HBO show White Lotus as well as the Netflix series “From Scratch”. I visited in October 2022 prior to seeing either show and I can tell you that Sicily is incredible. A somewhat wild and untamed version of mainland Italy. An island that has its own customs, food, history, even its own dialect. Planning a trip here can be daunting and I admit that even as an experienced traveler I struggled, especially when everyone told me I “HAD” to rent a car. Ultimately, I had a brilliant holiday and I will share all my tips so you can plan your own 2 weeks in Sicily itinerary without a car.

Sicily is technically part of Italy but feels a bit like visiting a whole separate country and therefore I recommend you treat it as such. Combining it with other parts of Italy only makes sense if you have oodles of time. Otherwise, I suggest a minimum of 2 weeks just in Sicily. However, if you don’t have 2 weeks to dedicate to Sicily, I will give suggestions for a 1 week Sicily Itinerary without a car.

Sicily Basics

Language

Italian is the official language but many people speak a regional Sicilian dialect. It is more than just a different accent, they have different words altogether. Learning some basic Italian is helpful because English is not as widely spoken here as it is in Northern Italy. I had a little phrasebook that was quite handy, used Google Translate and did 2 weeks of the Duo Lingo app prior to coming. (they have a 2 week free trial).

Currency

Italy (and therefore Sicily) is part of the EU and uses the Euro. The dollar was slightly higher than the Euro when I was there so that was nice. In general, I recommend always having cash. I’d say 50% of the time I needed cash because credit cards weren’t accepted. Visa and Mastercard are the preferred credit cards to have. ATM machines were fairly easy to find but you have to be careful to avoid the DCC and the Euronet ATMS. Read my tips for accessing and spending money overseas here.

How to Get Around

Renting a car gives you the most freedom however you need to find parking and be confident driving in Sicilian towns. Many people do this and I’ve heard that it can be harrowing but doable. I chose not to because I had previously spent 2 weeks in Puglia driving and was sort of over it. Plus the car rental prices were atrocious at the time of my trip. I found NOT having a car to be a different kind of freedom, one without worrying about the car, parking and aggressive drivers.

Sicily has a decent train system and an extensive bus system. The trains are not fast trains but they actually run on time and are pleasant. They are also very inexpensive, especially compared to northern Europe. The bus system is a bit confusing to foreigners and I had locals tell me they too barely understand it. However, it is an option. I used both the bus and the train to get around. Mostly the train for long trips and the bus for short trips. (very few bus drivers and station workers speak English so be prepared with some Italian transport vocabulary)

• When is the next bus to Noto? Quando parte il prossimo autobus per Noto?
• Where do I find the #3 bus? Dove trovo l’autobus numero tre?
• Which platform for the train to Palermo? Quale binario per il treno per palermo?
• Where is platform 2? Dov’è il binario due?

What to Wear in Sicily

This is simple. Wear whatever you want. I overthought this and read some blogs and received what I now consider to be terrible advice. Yes, Italians are considered very fashionable but this does not mean you need to try to match their style. Unless you are going in the extreme off-season, you will be amongst tons of other tourists anyway.

I went in mid to late October. I had read that Italians will be wearing fall clothing. This was not true whatsoever in the south of Italy, and it was way too warm for fall clothing. Sandals and sundresses for women would have been perfect. Jeans, a light jacket, a variety of various sleeve length shirts. Maybe one sweater, one scarf. Comfortable walking shoes. Easy. Don’t overthink and pack light. Especially if you don’t have a car, lugging your suitcase around is easier if it is carry-on sized.

2 Week Sicily Itinerary Without a Car

• Day 1 Fly into Catania
• Day 2 Catania
• Day 3 Taormina
• Day 4 Mount Etna half day
• Day 5 Valley of the Temples
• Day 6 Train to Siracusa/Ortigia Island
• Day 7 Ortigia Island
• Day 8 Day trip to Noto
• Day 9 Train to Cefalu
• Day 10 Cefalu
• Day 11 Train to Palermo (can spend the first half of day in Cefalu if you want more time)
• Day 12 Palermo
• Day 13 Day trip to Monreale or Corleone
• Day 14 Day trip or stay in Palermo
• Day 15 Fly out of Palermo

Because I went in October, I didn’t focus on beachy places but if that’s your jam, it’s easy enough to throw into this itinerary.

Catania

Catania and Palermo are natural starting/ending points for a trip to Sicily because this is where you will find flights. You can also arrive to Catania by train from the mainland!

Catania is the 2nd largest city in Sicily after Palermo and is well connected by rail and bus to the rest of the island. I stayed at the Duomo Suites and SPA and highly recommend it. I was just a few minutes walk from the Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata and the Fish Market as well as just about everything in the center of Catania.

Things to Do in Catania

• Do a walking food tour. This was great fun and delicious! It took us through the fish market but I recommend going back and spending more time, maybe have some fresh oysters.
• Climb a few church towers for fantastic views. My favorite view was from the tower at the Chiesa di San Giuliano.
• Walk down Via Crociferi and see all the churches.
• Go shopping on Via Etnea.
• Have dinner on Via Filomena. It’s a fun and scenic street full of bars and restaurants.

Taormina

Taormina is one hour north of Catania and is a gorgeous small town that has a beach resort area. This was the setting for White Lotus 2 and I’m sure now it’s even MORE popular. Staying here is definitely more expensive than in Catania and unless you are having beach time, there isn’t as much to do. It is incredibly charming with shopping, cute restaurants, colorful granita shops and a fantastic ancient Greek Theater that is considered one of the best in the world. The view from the theater is worth seeing. It is the cover photo on this post. Taormina is expensive to stay and gets loads of cruise ship passengers. Y’all know my feelings on THAT.

Mount Etna

You can choose to do a half day sunset hike to Mount Etna like I did or do an entire day of hiking and even visit wineries in the area. There are plenty of tours operating from both Taormina and Catania. I like to use Get Your Guide to find and book tours.

Valley of the Temples/Piazza Armerina

This is fantastic day tour I did but could have also been done from Palermo. The Valley of the Temples is located in Agrigento on the southern coast of Sicily. Little did I know before this trip that Sicily is one of the best places in the world to see Greek ruins. The Valley of the Temples is spectacular and if you love Greek history, ruins, archaeology, etc, you must see this place.

Piazza Armerina is sort of in the middle of the island. It is a city with a famous Roman villa called Villa Romana del Casale, that was once owned by some Roman noble bigwig. The big draw are the incredible mosaic tile floors which have made this a UNESCO heritage site. I know you’re thinking, I’m going to go all that way to see some floors? Yes! They are spectacular. Like, I was floored at how fabulous it was. I was not mentally prepared. I too was thinking, how great can this be. But luckily I had a good friend who told me not to miss it and now I’m that good friend telling you.

Between the Greek and Roman sites, its a great way to visualize what ancient Sicily was like. The tour I did also stopped to see the spectacular Scala dei Turchi (pictured earlier in this post) aka the Turkish Stairs. They are stunning white cliffs overlooking the sea.

Syracusa/Ortigia

I’m excited to tell you about this place because it was my favorite from the trip. Why? It seemed to strike that enviable balance between an authentic normal town but also touristy and charming. Almost as if Catania and Taormina had a baby. Added bonus is some seriously incredible Greek Ruins. You have it all here. History, a scenic walkable small town, the beach and is well positioned to do some day trips. I felt like there was enough to do here to keep me busy a few days and I will definitely spend more time here on my next trip.

Syracusa (or Syracuse) is the main city and Ortigia is an island connected by a small bridge that is walkable. Ortigia is also known as the Città Vecchia, and contains many historical landmarks. I would recommend staying here rather than in Syracusa since it is much more scenic and surrounded by the ocean.

Some things to do in Syracuse/Ortigia include:

• Stroll the scenic streets of the historic island
• Visit Syracuse Cathedral
• See the Greek Theaters and Temple of Apollo
• Get some local products at the Ortigia Street Market
• See the Fountain of Diana in Piazza Archimede
• Check out the Castello Maniace
• Head to one of the beaches
• Take a boat trip

Noto

The three Baroque cities of Noto, Ragusa and Modica all look stunning and are options to see in the southwest of Sicily. I only had time for one and chose Noto since it seemed to be the closest from Oritigia. You can go by train or bus. Train is easier, I think. I missed the train and was stuck with the bus which was very confusing to find! I also saw many day trips advertised from Catania that stopped in all three so this is also an option. They are all small towns and can easily be visited in just a half day. This town happened to be featured in White Lotus 2 as well.

Cefalu

Cefalu in on the Northeast coast of Sicily and doesn’t seem like a natural next stop after being in Oritigia but I took the train from Syracusa to Messina and then changed to go to Cefalu which is very close to Palermo. If you get the faster train, the entire journey is under 5 hours. This is a great way to transition from the east side of Sicily to the west.

Cefalu is another small resorty town but not in the over-the-top way that Taormina is. It doesn’t seem to get the same amount of traffic probably because less people visit this side of Sicily and there are less cruise ships here. It has a beach area and even in mid-October when I went it was warm and people were swimming!

After getting your fill walking around and admiring the quaint town and eating everything in site, you can hike up to Rocca di Cefalu for stunning views of the city. It takes anywhere from 30 min to an hour to climb depending on your fitness and how often you stop. There are some ruins and statues to look at with not much explanation as to their significance.

I stayed at A Tonnara Charme B&B and really liked it. Was a short walk into town and had great ocean views. For a slightly upscale dinner with a terrace on the water, try ViaRoma Vecchio. Was excellent! Locanda del Marinaio was a nice spot for pizze. If you want gelato or granita with a water view and a funny waiter that says “I love you” to everyone, check out

Palermo

Finally we arrive to the capital of Sicily and it’s largest city. Palermo has been maligned for years and infamous for mafia related violence. I’m pleased to tell you that this reputation may be have been deserved at some point in time but it certainly isn’t currently. From Palermo’s Old Town, full of historical buildings and neoclassical architecture to the vibrant street markets and nearby beaches, you will find no shortage of things to do (and eat) here. I spent 5 nights here and was never bored.

Visit Teatro Massimo, the largest theater in Italy and the 3rd largest in Europe

I did a tour here but didn’t have a chance to see a show. It’s gorgeous inside.

Mercato del Capo

You may visit this on one of the food tours but if not it’s a must! Even if you go on a tour you will want to come back and explore at leisure.

Take a Walking Food Tour

This isn’t a suggestion, it’s an order. Did you know that arancina originally was made with a white ragu since tomatoes didn’t arrive in Italy until the 1500s? This is just one of many fun and delicious facts you will learn as you walk, eat and learn history. Side note…take yourself on a very unofficial “spritz” tour. I’m sure you’ve heard of Aperol Spritz but there is the “Sicilian Spritz” and a dozen others that you should try. There was a even place called the Spritzeria!

Monreale

Take a half day trip to Monreale to see one of the most spectacular cathedrals in the world and get a taste of Arab Norman architecture.

You don’t need a tour. Take the AMAT bus 389 from Palermo which departs from Piazza Independenza and takes about 20 minutes. Typically on Italian buses you must purchase a ticket in advance as the driver does not sell them. Palermo bus tickets are 1.40 euro and can be obtained at a nearby tabacchi or news agency. You should buy a few just to have when you need them. You must validate them as you board. The bus service is infrequent, approximately every 60-90 minutes so plan ahead! This bus is often crowded depending on the time of year so you may have standing room only

The bus stops 100 meters from the main square and is a short walk to Monreale Cathedral. The cathedral is free but there is a charge to climb the tower and visit the cloisters, which I recommend. I have been to many cathedrals in my day but this one is out of this world. It is one of a kind with the aforementioned Arab Norman architecture that I had no idea existed before this trip, but am now obsessed with.

I became so enthralled with Arab Norman architecture that I went on a self tour to see as many structures as I could in the area. I had already seen the cathedral in Cefalu.

The Palermo Cathedral Cattedrale di Palermo

This is a 15-20 min walk from the historical center. The next two sites are a bit further out but I enjoy a good walk, especially after the way I eat in Italy. It took about 20 minutes to walk to the Norman Palace from the center where I stayed (near via Roma in Kalsa)

Palazzo dei Normani with the Cappella Palatina

The Palatine Chapel here at the Norman Palace is utterly spectacular. The same vibe as the one in Monreale just much smaller. But just as exquisite. You have to pay extra to enter the chapel and it’s worth it. I’m not religious or “churchy” and I was awestruck. The photos don’t do this justice. This isn’t gold paint. It’s sparkly mosaic tile.

Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremiti

This was a short walk from the Palace. The cloisters here was such a pleasant surprise. I felt like I had been transported to somewhere in Damascus or Morocco. The courtyard with intricate archways and fountains is the kind of place you will want to sit and just enjoy your surroundings. Bring a book, a snack and a drink and stay awhile for a peaceful city break.

The Anti-Mafia Tour to Corleone

Yes Corleone is a real place and yes the Palermo mafia has it’s roots here. This tour didn’t glamorize mafia culture. Instead it offered the history about the mafia’s origins and the efforts the community has made to get rid of it. There is actually a museum of sorts, ran by a woman who is the niece of a massive mafia figure who is still alive. This was fascinating and I think very important since so much of the culture of Sicily has been associated with this negative force.

1 week in Sicily Without a Car

If you have only one week, I recommend you stay on the east side or only the west side of the island. I’m considering a week as 7 nights and 2 weeks as 15 nights.

1 week in East Sicily

• Day 1 Fly in to Catania
• Day 2 Catania
• Day 3 Taormina day trip
• Day 4 Mount Etna or Valley of the Temples day trip
• Day 5 Train to Siracusa/Ortigia (stay 2 nights)
• Day 6 Siracusa/Ortigia
• Day 7 Day trip to either Noto or Ragusa
• Return to Catania by train for flight out

This itinerary could be done simply by day trips from Catania and you would only have to unpack once. Ortigia was my favorite part so I’m biased toward staying there. You could also choose more or less time in Ortigia and take a day away from the Catania activities. Or vice versa if you want to see Mount Etna AND Valley of the Temples.

1 week West Sicily Itinerary

• Day 1 Fly into Palermo and take train to Cefalu
• Day 2 Cefalu
• Day 3 Train then bus to Trapani
• Day 4 Trapani
• Day 5 Palermo
• Day 6 Day trip to Agrigento /Valley of Temples
• Day 7 Monreale or Corlene Day trip
• Day 8 fly out from Palermo

For this Itinerary, it may be easiest to just stay in Palermo the entire time and see Cefalu as a day trip. Trapani is too far for a day trip so requires at least one overnight if you want to see it. So many day trip options from Palermo. Mondello is a popular one and a beautiful beach if that’s on your list of things to do. I saw a Trapani/Erice/Segesta day trip advertised but seems like a lot. Also Trapani is home to some of the most beautiful beaches if that’s your thing so spending time there may be a priority. Piazza Armerina is also a possibility for a day trip. There’s a ton to do in Sicily!!

Don’t Listen to People

You will talk to many people who will tell you not to spend much time in Palermo or Catania. Yes these are bigger cities compared to the charming small towns of Taormina or Cefalu but these places are more “resort-y” and therefore more crowded and expensive. Yes they are heart-wrenchingly beautiful but still. I found plenty to do in Palermo to occupy two full days and there are many possible day trips. I also really loved Catania. If you stay near the old historic center as I did, you almost feel as if you are in a small charming town. They are both great bases for exploring the region and when you return from your day trips you have all the buzzy aperitivo spots, great restaurants and nightlife to choose from.

Personally, I prefer to move around minimally because I hate the process of checking in/checking out, packing, and unpacking every other day. That is why I stayed in Catania for the 1st 5 nights and used it as a base for day trips. I try to maximize the time I spend having fun traveling and minimize the annoying parts of travel.

Why I loved Sicily

Sicily was such a fantastic surprise. I knew I would like it well enough, because hey, I can’t imagine not liking any part of Italy. However I didn’t just like it…I fell in love with it. Sicily is less refined than Northern Italy and western Europe. It is gritty, a bit chaotic with an unexpected blending of cultures I love to see. The people are welcoming and very proud of their culture. I need at least a month to see Sicily properly! So many people think you can’t visit without renting car but now hopefully you have enough information to plan your trip to Sicily without a car.

Have you been to Sicily? If so what are your favorite places? Where should I go next time??