What It’s Like to Spend Two Weeks in Antarctica
I hate using the word “epic” because let’s face it, it is ruefully overused. However when trying to describe Antarctica so few words do it justice. Before this trip I wasn’t sure what went on during an Antarctic expedition. I thought I’d see lots of ice, penguins, maybe get seasick and clink champagne with a bunch of septuagenarians who are celebrating their final continent. I thought I would end up reading several books while bored at sea. Well, my expectations were monumentally exceeded, something I don’t say often. These two weeks in Antarctica were awe-inspiring, humbling, and life-changing.
Table of Contents
Why Antarctica?
If you ask people who want to go to Antarctica why they want to go, you will get many answers about seeing all 7 continents. Sure, this was something I also wanted to accomplish sometime before I died but I wasn’t in a hurry. I imagined I would be one of the many 70-year-old battle-scarred travelers, checking that last continent off the ole bucket list. However, after reading the book “Where’d You Go, Bernadette” in 2011 I became desperate to go as soon as I could. That, and climate change.
I chose the G Adventures Expedition ship, specifically, the 2 week Quest for the Antarctic Circle voyage. A longer trip appealed to me and I also wanted more of an adventure driven journey. I also wanted to do the optional kayak add on which tends to sell out early. This ship had 130 guests which is ideal. Ships that are too large are not permitted to do landings. Most people on this ship were quite adventurous and very cool. I rarely spoke with someone who gave “checking off the 7th continent” as a reason to be on this trip. Most people were nature and wildlife enthusiasts who liked me longed to see remote corners of the world. The majority were over 50 but there was a small group of us 25-45 ers (like how I throw myself into that large “youthful” age range?).
What Do You Do For 2 Weeks in Antarctica?
I was often asked this question before I went and I actually didn’t know. I knew the itinerary and knew there would be amazing scenery and wildlife sightings but really didn’t know exactly what I’d be doing.
Arrival in Ushuaia
This is the embarkment point for most Antarctic expeditions. It is a pretty little alpine town with plenty to do and many people spend time here before or after the cruise. G Adventures helped us arrange a trip to Tierra Del Fuego National Park where we rode the train to the end of the world (El Fin del Mundo). This was a half-day tour and gave us plenty of time to get to our boat’s departure meeting point by 3:00 pm.
Boarding TIme
I met a handful of fellow passengers at the hotel the night before the ship left, which was fun. When we all met at the port prior to boarding time, the excitement level that had been coming to a boil was now threatening to spill over. I for one can’t remember the last time I had this feeling…this childlike-night-before-Christmas sort of excitement. We were handed name badges that had our room assignments and then ran around like teenagers trying to figure out who our cabin mates would be. Luckily I was with my hotel roommate and another woman I had already met. Another group of new friends was next door. Excitement level just kicked up another notch.
After what seemed like ages, they bused us to the ship where we boarded, were warmly greeted by staff and crew, were handed reusable water bottles and shown to our cabins. The cabins were much nicer than I had imagined. To save money I had chosen a quad room and was pleased to see that it was well organized, with many closets, drawers, and conveniences to make everyone comfortable.
Leaving Ushuaia via the Beagle Channel
The reality of this journey was setting in and the excitement level reached red alert as the boat readied to leave port. Little did we know at the time that we would be forever changed and be reliving these moments over and over the rest of our lives. WE WERE GOING TO ANTARCTICA!
We had an introductory meeting where we met the crew and then went to muster stations. Snacks and refreshments were served in the Expedition Lounge and when we finally set sail, everyone rushed outside to enjoy the gorgeous weather and scenery as we officially took off.
Lectures and Presentations
There were briefings about safety and conduct in Antarctica, and we learned about IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators) regulations regarding distances we must keep from wildlife, biosecurity and making sure we don’t leave any waste. We had to carefully guard our belongings so that things don’t blow off the ship or the zodiacs. Anything we would take on land including backpacks, camera bags, hats, and gloves was inspected and vacuumed for seeds or anything that could possibly contaminate the perfect fragile eco-system.
Throughout the voyage, we enjoyed presentations from the impressive crew containing penguin, whale, seabird, seal, geology, photography and history experts. I knew nothing about Antarctica before but now I know that it is a continent that has no countries. It’s the least inhabited continent. There are about 4000-5000 people here in the summer and less than 1000 in winter spread amongst the 40 permanently inhabited research stations. Antarctica is the coldest, dryest and windiest place on earth and has the highest average elevation of all the continents. At 14 million square km it is bigger than the United States and Australia put together and actually doubles in size in winter.
Fun Fact: No country “owns” Antarctica. 12 nations were the original sponsors of The Antarctic Treaty which was signed in 1959 and has since grown to 43 countries representing about 2/3 of the world’s population. The goal was that Antarctica should be respected as a place of peace and harmony between nations where science can be conducted and various countries would work together. So far this idea has largely been respected. I love this quote from the preamble of the treaty:
“It is in the interest of all mankind that Antarctica shall continue forever to be used exclusively for peaceful purposes and shall not become the scene or object of international discord.”
The Drake Passage
The dreaded Drake Passage. If you haven’t heard of it, it is the channel of water between the southern tip (Cape Horn) of South American and the South Shetland Islands (just north of the Antarctic Peninsula). It’s strong currents connect the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Most ships will not see land for 2 days while on the Drake.
Mother nature determines what kind of experience you have; Drake Lake or Drake Shake. It is advised to have seasickness medications prescribed ahead of time and to be prepared. Alas, many were not and I felt really sorry for the ship’s doctor. We had a relatively calm Drake and although there are people who still became ill (everyone reacts to motion sickness differently), there were many like myself who didn’t feel great but didn’t actually vomit. I had a light dinner the first night, drank lots of ginger tea, took my medications before the symptoms became worse and at one point just gave up on life and went to bed. I also used those accu-pressure Sea Bands on the wrists which do work. The rocking of the boat is great for sleep by the way and the beds were super comfy.
Our First Day at Sea
The next morning, the Drake was calmer and the captain was making excellent time. The ship had a central reception area where there was a real-time map on a screen showing our location which was fun to track. Remember how I thought I’d be bored, sitting around reading? I didn’t look at my Kindle once. Not once! A full day of activities was planned starting with our introduction to citizen science. This is a way the staff and passengers of Antarctic trips can help out scientists. It’s too expensive for scientists to constantly be cruising around the Antarctic so they can utilize people like us and the crew. There is a whale and seal identification project (“Happy Whale”), a sea bird survey and NASA cloud observations, among other projects where water samples are collected for salinity and phytoplankton analysis.
We headed up to the top deck for our first sea bird survey. We saw a Black-Browed Albatross, Southern Giant Petrels, and Wandering Albatross which are HUGE!
That evening we had a champagne toast for the captain’s, Cader Gilles, official greeting. This expedition was officially underway.
Kayaking Program
When I booked the trip a year ago, I signed up for the optional Kayak Program. Only 20 people can sign up. We had various kayak meetings the first two days where we learned about the procedures for our excursions, got fitted for gear and had the fear of God put in us. The liability waiver we signed was more than a little scary. Two people dropped out because they realized it was too strenuous for them. It’s not typical kayaking and not to be taken lightly.
First Landing in the South Shetland Islands
The Sea Gods shined upon us our captain powered through a calm Drake and made a landing earlier than expected. What’s interesting is that although they have an itinerary, it’s not set in stone. “Weather Permitting” are words you hear often. There are many factors including winds, the sea, ice, etc that will determine where the ship can go and what landings are possible. Conditions can change rapidly and the crew needs to keep us safe first and foremost. We were warned that there may be days we are not able to land at a planned location.
It turned out that we had a record-setting trip with extraordinary weather and we made all 11 landings. Many places we went, some of the crew had never been. One crew member said it was the best trip he had been on in 35 years. I feel incredibly fortunate for this.
Deception Island
We woke to sunshine, bright blue skies, towering icebergs and humpback whales feeding in the waters near the ship. What a greeting Antarctica gave us. We made our first landing at Baily Head on the outside of Deception Island, which is not always possible, as it is considered one of the most challenging landings in the Antarctic Peninsula region. This island is home to 80,000 breeding pairs of Chinstrap Penguins and you can hear them (and smell them) from the zodiacs as we approached the island. My excitement level was off the charts at this point.
The Mud Room
Upon leaving and returning to the boat we have to swipe our badges. This allows the crew to know who is on and off the boat. Great system! Everyone had to dip their boots in antiseptic solution to clean off any bacteria or viruses as to not transfer disease from one penguin colony to another. We had to actually scrub our boots upon return and if they weren’t clean enough, there was a “boot walk of shame” where you were called to return to the mudroom and try again!
The mudroom was a huge room with hooks and benches and was where we kept our waterproof boots (the ship provided), our lifevests and waterproof pants. Everyone had an assigned spot with a number. Again, the level of streamlined organization impressed me.
Sunrise in Antarctica
From a spectacular sunset to a sensational sunrise. I think I can die happy now.
Neko Harbour
We had finally arrived onto the actual Antarctic Peninsula and what a day it was. I felt like I had been transported into the Antarctica Brochure. The sea was transformed into a shimmering mirror with the brash of ice glittering like diamonds. Pure perfection of nature.
We had our first kayaking excursion today and were treated to swimming penguins, a sleepy humpback whale and 2 leopard seals, one which inspected each kayak, in a curious, adorable and slightly terrifying way.
Cuverville Island
Landing on Cuverville island to the welcoming sounds of thousands of Gentoo Penguins and their chicks was a moment I’ll never forget. It is almost overwhelming to step foot on Antarctic land, to attempt to process all the grandiosity of the mountains, the stark white ice, the impossibly blue water, and the fact that there are thousands of penguins everywhere. My senses were on overdrive as I desperately tried to ingest every second, every sight, every feeling into some part of my brain that would never forget.
We hiked up a steep icy hill to what may be the most beautiful view on the planet and then we slid down on our backs which was maybe not the smartest idea, but great fun. There may or may not have been injuries. I will refer you to my Instagram Stories to see these shenanigans.
Camping in Leith Cove
This was the day that kept giving since it was suddenly decided that the conditions were perfect for camping. A small group of us decided to forgo our comfy warm beds and spend the night on the ice AND pay more for this. Sounds crazy right? Especially since I got talked into this by people I knew literally all of 5 minutes. I have mixed feelings about this whole thing but I will say that yes, I was very, very cold. It was an experience.
The Lemaire Channel
The weather had turned a bit gloomy but the astounding beauty of Antarctica could not be dulled in the slightest. I wasn’t keen on being outdoors in these conditions but the wiley crew lured us on deck with hot cocoa and Kahlua to keep us happy while we watched the boat navigate through the narrow Lemaire Channel.
It’s hard to show in photos the scale of the colossal mountains covered in ice that surrounded us at any given time.
Photos can’t do justice to the phosphorescent other-worldly shades of blue that come from icebergs.
Port Lockroy aka the Penguin Post Office
This abandoned British base holds the most southern post office in the world and yes I did send postcards because how often will my parents receive a postcard from Antarctica? Proceeds from the souvenir shop fund the maintenance of the site and other historic sites in Antarctica. The Trust collects data for the British Antarctic Survey to observe the effect of tourism on penguins. Half the island is open to tourists, while the other half is reserved for penguins. A staff of only four process 70,000 pieces of mail sent by the 18,000 visitors during the five-month Antarctic cruise season!
The ultra curious Gentoo chicks here were alone as their parents had gone out to sea. They are naive and have no fear. We had to be especially careful not to step on them since they would walk right on our boots at times. 
More Surprises On Board
You never know what’s next on this trip. The crew surprised us with a BBQ on the stern deck. Never in a million years would I dream of dining outdoors in Antartica.
Crossing the Antarctic Circle
This was a mega exciting event that everyone was out on the bow for. This is the name of the voyage after all (Quest for the Antarctic Circle). Most ships don’t venture this far south so we were all stoked to be doing this. The Antarctic Circle is an astronomical designation of the lowest latitude at which you have midnight sun (December solstice) at least once per year and polar night once per year (June solstice) where there is no sun. The opposite occurs in the Arctic Circle.
We were surrounded by sea ice and many of the chunks had crabeater seals on them. The ice was somehow even more majestic with grey skies and waters. A zodiac ride around this harbor brought us closer to the seals and we actually did a landing on sea ice! It was surreal to stand on a floating piece of ice south of the Antarctic Circle, knowing that nobody will ever stand on that particular piece of ice again.
Stonington Island
Stonington is the site of two bases, Base E built by the British and East Base, built by the United States. This was where the first women to overwinter in Antarctica lived (hello, total badasses!). Both of these places are frozen in time and the island itself is breathtaking. Some of us took a special zodiac ride with the photographer in residence to get some special tips.
Red Rock Ridge
Just when I thought I couldn’t possibly be more impressed, Antarctica just keeps showing me more astonishingly brilliant sights like these next places.
The sky put on another show for us this evening.
Antarctica Video
I think it’s best sometimes to see this in video form to really get the idea. Plus…lots of adorable penguins doing adorable things.
Polar Plunge
I was not keen to throw my half-naked body into icy Antarctic water but it is the “cool thing” to do and my friends on board (and a flask of whiskey) helped to get me really pumped about it! The outside temp was 5 degrees C and the water was 0 degrees C (32 degrees F). Yes, it was shockingly cold. I yelled curse words the entire time and my legs seemed to stop working as I tried to get up the ladder. However, you are in the water less than 10 seconds, and the second you are back on the ship, someone gives you a warm towel, shots of Aquavit and then straight to the sauna and the whole thing was a ton of fun. I have movie footage in my Instagram Stories.
Palmer Station
This was another rare landing site that many ships don’t get to and as an American, I was thrilled to see this American Scientific Base that operates in conjunction with NASA, NOAA, NSF, the US Air Force and US Navy for many different research projects. I loved meeting these badass scientists and support staff who live here all winter long. They gave us a tour and served brownies (their brownies are the best in Antarctica apparently). I was happy to see that my country still values scientific exploration.
Fur Seals
As we rode zodiacs near Palmer Station we saw a bunch of fur seals hanging out and noisily warning us not to get too close. They have some serious attitude and I think it really shows in their faces.
Again, the sky was astonishing this evening. I think I took 50 photos of this sky. Don’t worry I’ll only show you one.
Cierva Cove and Mikkelson Harbour
This was our last day before crossing the Drake again. We had a marvelous day of kayaking and saw a few more whales from the kayaks which never gets old.
Fun and Games Onboard
As if seeing all these amazing places wasn’t enough, there was never a dull moment on the ship. Every other night the ship’s musician Pablo Cantua played in the Polar Bear Lounge where dancing and shenanigans occurred way too late into the night making many of us miss breakfasts. Karaoke night was particularly memorable. Close to the end of the trip, there was a sort of costume/comedy contest where guests could dress up and perform a little skit for prizes. I laughed until my belly hurt this evening. We had Trivia Night to see how much we retained all the presentations and lectures (my group came in 3rd and won wine). We watched Blue Planet 2 and Happy Feet. There was always something fun happening.
On our last night, there was an auction for the Planeterra Charity that G Adventures sponsors. My friends and I won a flash drive holding the precious mp3 of the expedition leader, Jonathan Green’s voice doing a wake-up call similar to the one we had every day. It is hard to explain how awesome this was. The most coveted prize was the map of our ship’s journey, signed by the captain. This was determined by raffle. It was a very fun night and money was raised for charity.
All. The. Feels.
This trip was everything I could have wished for. I am still overwhelmed trying to process my thoughts and feelings about everything I learned and experienced. The astounding mind-blowing beauty of the massive imposing wilderness, the joy of seeing whales, seals, penguins, albatross in their natural habitat, the camaraderie with the other passengers, the knowledge and expertise of the crew, the warmth of the hospitality staff, and the gratitude that I was able to visit this pristine precious remote part of the world; these are intense feelings and memories that I hope I never forget. I can’t imagine that I could.
I will leave you with this quote, that I heard and think describes Antarctica perfectly:
“Take the Rockies, the Alps and Mount Washington. Cover them with thick crusted snow that, like frosting spread by a giant’s hand has spilled down over the land to end in a jagged, uneven border where it meets the sea.Imagine yourself on a spaceship in another world. A world, that for ten million years is blocked in all directions by a cruel, cold ocean.Take all the adjective in Mr. Roget’s Thesaurus and you still haven’t got it. For nothing, not even Mr. Roget’s best can convey one’s first impression of that vast, mysterious immensity of ice.It is a lesson in humility, an unforgettable reminder of man’s mortality, and it is like no other place on earth”
What do you think? Would you go to Antarctica? What other questions do you have?
Pin it and share the love!
*Disclaimer: I was not sponsored but participate in the Amazon and G adventures affiliate programs which means I may make a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you book anything through the links I provide.
About The Author
Cherene Saradar
Cherene is a travel expert with 30 years of experience in over 100 countries and 7 continents. She has traveled solo to over 50 countries. She is also a nurse anesthesiologist with over 20 years of healthcare experience. Her passions include wildlife travel and visiting wine regions of the world.
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How to Plan a Trip to Antarctica - Wandering Redhead | 20th Apr 19
[…] Read More: What it’s like to Spend Two Weeks in Antarctica […]
Linnea | 30th Mar 19
Wow! The hardest part is finding a great company to go with and G Adventures looks amazing! So jealous you were able to kayak too! This is definitely on my ultimate bucket list, and I’m definitely considering G Adventures for when booking time comes!
csaradar | 1st Apr 19
You won’t regret it!!! They were awesome.
thetravelfairies | 30th Mar 19
This looks so amazing! I have been reading a book about Ernest Shackleton’s visit to the Antarctic so would absolutely love to visit one day! Its amazing that you got to meet the scientists working out there too and to help with their research.
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
I am inspired to read books like that after this trip. We had history presentations and they were fascinating!
Katja | 30th Mar 19
This is so amazing omg! I hope i have the chance to visit this incredible place one day. I´m blown away by your photos! Looks like such a great experience and congratulations for sleeping in a tent haha, I think I would ahve passed this one 🙂 🙂
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
Yes the tent wasn’t my favorite experience but everything else was fabulous. I hope you go someday too! My pictures don’t do it justice.
emese | 30th Mar 19
wow! that does look like the adventure of a lifetime… thanks for sharing
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
no other way to describe it. LOL
agniecha78hotmailcom | 30th Mar 19
This trip has been high on my bucket list for a while. What an amazing time and unforgettable experiences.
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
Honestly I’m heartbroken that it’s over. It really is life changing!
Helen | 30th Mar 19
What a fabulous trip and wonderful post! Your pictures are just incredible, I was amazed at how blue glaciers are the first time I saw them so I can only imagine how blue Antarctica is! Absolutely adore the wildlife pics as well. I read Where’d You Go, Bernadette? last year so recognised a few of the place names!
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
Haha isn’t that book fab? I remember the way Antarctica was described and it made me want to go so bad. Just unworldy down there.
The Middle Age Wanderer | 30th Mar 19
Absolutely stunning photos. Thanks for the tips. It is definitely on our bucket list.
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
Thank you! I hope you make it soon. You won’t regret it!
Just Heading Out | 30th Mar 19
OMG this is awesome! I am so jealous 😉
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
I still can’t believe it finally happened. I literally have been saving up since 2011 (kind of…lol)
zanetabarancom | 29th Mar 19
Awe girl, Antarctica is on my bucket list. I was never into cold places but these extreme destinations are something what I really really want to do. Such a great experience!
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
I HATE being cold. People who know me (I lived in Miami for 15 years) couldn’t believe I was going. You just bring a shit ton of warm clothes. But it’s the ultimate remote destination and with out of this world beauty!
Dani Gill | 29th Mar 19
Such a great detailed post and it looks stunning!! I can’t wait to go there (my 7th continent) one day!!! The kayaking looks especially amazing. Have pinned for future!
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
Yes this is a must for a world traveler bucket list and it will ruin all other trips for you (just a warning LOL) I think once you committ to spending the cash you may as well do the kayaking too because it takes the whole experience up a notch.
Natasha L | 29th Mar 19
This is incredible! Really, such a detailed account of your trip and such an amazing trip at that. I’ve always wanted to go but the Drake Shake has got me shook. I reallllllly don’t do well on bad waters. Im so happy that you got great weather- I imagine it makes or breaks the trip! The photographer in me is dying to visit!
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
Definitely a photographer’s dream. Not everyone gets Drake Shake but you need to have the right medications and be prepared. It’s best to just sleep through it!
Francesca | 29th Mar 19
I am going to Antartica 2020-2021. I am so excited even though it is so far away. I loved reading about what to expect and all of your pictures!
csaradar | 30th Mar 19
I am excited for you! I would do this entire trip again and again in a heartbeat. You are in for a treat!
Debbie Hilburn | 28th Mar 19
What an incredible trip. It was beautiful. Love following your adventures.
csaradar | 29th Mar 19
Thanks so much for always commented and checking out my posts:)